Greetings from the Dune Sea again. Today I would like to show you guys a recent completion I did for Darksider. I hadn't done one of these before so a huge shot out goes to Scottjua for his input. This is the first time I was able to see one of these up close and personal, one reason I accepted the challenge since I will probably want one of these for myself in the future. This is a 3rd generation Parks Obi ( I think ).
Specs: Nano V2 TCSS 18650 with in hilt recharge Tri Rebel BB main W FoC 7/8' blade and blade plug made by me TCSS 20MM speaker.
Since you have all seen one of these before I thought I would post some build pics in case anyone else might want to try their hands at one of these. The fact that this was a Nano install made things much simpler as I did not need to machine out the black slitted grip area, just the 7/8' aluminum pipe that connects everything together needed to be heavily modded. Using Scottjua's method of using a plunger with a crystal on top as brass valve switch made the need for Parks red activation switch unnecessary. We originally ordered one but 2 months later nothing has arrived and he has been unresponsive to any and all forms of contact. Ok, I'm tired of typing, time for some pics.
Thanks for looking and MTFBWY.
EDIT: Sandpeople was kind enough to remind me, once again, that I need to change the date in my watermark. Do this, I must!
Last Edit: Jul 2, 2017 15:37:24 GMT -5 by Obi-Shane
Is the red button for blade retention and the bike valve the power? If so, that hides the retention screw nicely.
The blade retention screw hole is tapped under the crown on the opposite side of the red button, few ways to do it on this. I had thought about making the bike valve and red button switch removable and then rotate the emitter sleeve to expose the set screw but it was just too impractical. The red button was too far back in order to use it as a retention screw. Bike valve is the power switch, correct. The way it works now is everything is housed in the 7/8 tube including the Led AND lens. The blade never touches the lens at all, and the inner 7/8" pipe acts as a blade stop.
Turned out GREAT! So far this is my favorite Parks version of the saber. His most accurate at least... in some ways...
Great use of the Nano too. Love that small board for making tight builds easier. Where's the speaker located?
Also... what radius cutter is that!? I NEEDS one!
The speaker is located between the board and the switch. If you look at the sink tube ( for lack of a better word) you can see where the extra room was milled out for it, the 20mm tcss one. It barely fits in that 7/8' tube. Thinking about what you told me and about sound issues without Swiss cheesing the pommel (which wasn't an option) I tried to get as much of the sound to vent out of the emitter as well as the grip.
That radius turner is Taigs stock accessory. This was the first time I really had a chance to test it and I have to say it's a must have for any lathe owner.
Last Edit: Feb 18, 2015 3:59:15 GMT -5 by Obi-Shane
megtoothsith: clamp card switch solution on Korbanth MPP, channel the core to the LED Module and run switch wires alongside LED? or Channel core just forward of the threads perpendicular to the existing channel topside?
Aug 15, 2017 8:56:46 GMT -5
jedicri: thanks ARKM!
Aug 15, 2017 14:29:10 GMT -5