Post by One Replicas on Jun 26, 2015 6:30:05 GMT -5
shadycanuck Ok, 29mm ID does let a twin 14XXX in, good. No chasis can fit 29mm ID AND hold a twin14XXX? not true... from a certain pont of view. There is no chasis design from TCSS intended to hold twin14XXX & fit a 1.15"ID, but maybe those "for 1.15 ID" chasis parts can be assembled in such way they do hold twin14XXX pack, they have 3 holes for spacers... maybe assembleing them using only two spacers could leave room for that twin14XXX. Not to mention 3D printed custom chasis.
ITS DECIDED, I WILL BORE OUT THE LAST 3 7/8" OF THE MAIN BODY TO A 1.15" ID
i.e.: you could fit Speaker+18650+NB in that 29.3mmIDx100mm space and fit a second 18650 inside the grip area (or at least a 18500). Or get creative and shoot for a twin-14XXX there.
zelazny anodizing is of course more durable (which is a lot becuase Pcoat it quite tough), Ill have to test the anodizing finish with very little dye-time and then compare.
Hi OR, These look amazing. As I've never done a light saber build myself, and I assume you are selling just the hilt alone. What would be the cost to have one wired with electronics, LED high watt single color, basic sound card with a decent speaker, batteries or recharge port etc. Is this something you would do or should I request help from a more local light saber smith in the Rebel Legion?
So i really was set on the hero build and not the V2. Can you speak to production of the regular ls6 or should i get on this run and do the black paint and anodized copper? By the time you paint and i get a replica graflex clamp costs are similar.
In a lower note, I would strongly sudgest you buy a complete graflex flashgun (instead of just the clamp) because Im not far from starting production of a COMPLETE Vader ROTJ kit... just so you know, and we are talking of a $130-tops kit with everything except graflex tube, realy EVERYTHING: shroud+thumbscrew, contol-box + mid band, door latch, emitter d-ring stud, kobold d-ring, glass-eye replacement, allen screws, rubber grips, blade-holder + heatsink... will start the thread and interest list any day now.
Post by darthdimitri on Jul 6, 2015 22:39:33 GMT -5
hmm, i think we shoudl be looking for someone to do the weathering or our sabers, the ones who want screen accurate jobs anyway. If anyone knows of anyone who can whether this like the MR LE or actual prop photos i would appreciate sending me to them. Thanks!
Post by One Replicas on Jul 8, 2015 7:18:09 GMT -5
noisetrigger Good question, the hole that goes from the emitter through the double choke sections up to the grip area is 7.5 mm in diameter... so that part you mention (which is the weakest point) has a wall of 4.15 mm. That shape will in deed concentrate stress and strain right at that point but im pretty confident that a 4mm wall will hold.
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