Post by One Replicas on Jul 13, 2015 7:24:59 GMT -5
Dont want to leave any fellow IRAn behind, and I shouldve made the anouncement of the deadline more visible (like the due-date reminder anouncement posted yesterday) and/or addressed directly to everyone on the interest list... so:
Sorry man been busy!! How much is due before shipping? Whole thing or deposit??
I set the deadline for signup first payment to be July 12th, there are a few folks that are in the interest list that are being call out some of which might send payment within these few days, So if you want in, tag along with the few latecomers and send over the first payment of $55 right away.
Soon we will be talking about powder coating options OK
First of all, I did´nt offer all hilts already with a "standard/basic" powder coat layout because of just one reason: its too tough to weather more so if you are aiming for a Screen-accurate look (almost imposible to pull off a scree-accurate look on the area between pommel and clamp with it powder coated).
Please download this drawing of the hilt unpainted, so you can "fill" the areas you want in the color you want. You have plenty of time to decide because of course Pcoat will take place before shipping. Take into account that the drawing shows the hilt with the sleeve on, so it will be painted if you fill any areas of it.
Once you made up your mind about the color layout, you can email me the modified drawing, again, there is no hurry to make up your mind in the first place and you have the chance to change the layout at any moment up until it actualy gets painted.
Just to clarify OR, when you say sleeve do you mean the blade plug that will sit over the LED/heatsink? Also, is their a basic powder coat cost or will it vary from hilt to hilt? Lastly, Does anyone know what the standard "as new", non-weathered powder coat will look like? Cause that's what I want, with a little copper in the neck just cause OR made it look so good....
Here is my take on 3 versions of an AFBB powdercoat scheme. I think the bottom 3/4 portion (left hand side) is pretty well defined from all the references if you add powder everywhere that is mostly black with scuffed up paint.
The emitter side is a little more tricky and open to interpretation. The top version matches the 'hero' saber and could go underneath some heavy weathering nicely. The middle version carries the "where mostly black" theme up the neck and could go so far as to include the nipple on the end. The final version stops short of having the whole saber black to blend between the hero and v2 look.
I would probably choose the bottom version if I wanted a pristine AFBB V2, I wouldn't use the copper to make it look less like a hero saber with the wrong clamp/box.
Personally, I will probably only do copper on the upper neck so that when I add black everywhere and weather it down it will expose some copper.
Last Edit: Jul 17, 2015 20:35:33 GMT -5 by solaren
Mikec is right - powder coating is designed for durability. Don't get me wrong, it can chip and be scratched, it is paint after all, albeit tough heat-baked paint. But removing it is a real pain, so don't powder coat anything you want to remove. Also the nature of powder coating versus weathering will result in 2 very different patinas, and they may conflict with each other on the same piece (unless that's something you want)
Post by One Replicas on Jul 19, 2015 11:05:21 GMT -5
gorpig send it over... remember that a lot of hilts is what gives all of you the big savings.
zelazny the sleeve Im talking about is the piece between the pommel and the grip area, the Pcoat template show the hilt with the sleeve on, here is a drawing that explains this better.
The powdercoat fee would be a (run exclusive) $4 per color. Remember you get to pick the shade/type of black: Mate, Satin, Semi-Gloss or High Gloss... I will use a satin black if the shade is not specified.
For copper I can either powder coat it or anodize it and will offer two anodized "shades", I lighter one and a richer one, I will post pics of the difinitive choices soon enough, so dont panic by feeling you have to make a rush decision. SORRY NO BLACK ANODIZING
Post by One Replicas on Jul 30, 2015 6:07:23 GMT -5
MAIN BODIES DONE!!! they dont apear to be much diferent from how they were but they have a lot of work done: threaded end, wide collar pressed on to the emmiter and machined to specs, under-sleeve section machined down (to receive sleeve), ID bored to 29mm.
Post by ZahcStarKiller on Aug 4, 2015 1:18:27 GMT -5
Do we yet have a timeframe for shipping OR? I am quite excited to get working away on mine...
Also, forgot to ask. My apologies if this was answered already... Will you be drilling/threading holes for the blade retention, switch wires under the clamp (and through the sleeve), and for the knurled knob prior to shipping? I don't have a drill press handy so I thought I would ask. I would gladly pay extra if you would be willing to drill the holes in the right places to keep it as close to screen accurate as possible (if you weren't already planning on it).
Post by One Replicas on Aug 4, 2015 15:50:01 GMT -5
Luuke Every hilt will be sent without paint or anodizing by default
EVERYTHING WILL BE DOUBLE CHECKED BEFORE SHIPPING SO REST ASSURED EVERYBODY
ZahcStarKiller yes, the run includes the features you mentioned but Im glad you asked because: I will take as reference the close up shots of the hilt at Emperor´s thrones armrest for the different details (cone-knob, D-ring, Clamp) and there relative position ... but those positions can be changed quite easily if there is another configuration you like best (thanks to the sleeve part)
Post by ZahcStarKiller on Aug 4, 2015 17:15:46 GMT -5
Awesome. I want mine as close to film accurate as possible, so that sounds great. I'm actually thinking of using the cone knob as a kill key, so I'll have to check that out once it gets here. It looks like a nice place to have the recharge port... Alternatively, in one of the square holes in the graflex clamp would be nice too.
Looking awesome dude. How far out are we looking till shipping?
Off the record... we are talking about 4-5 weeks for machining, another week for powdercoat (those who request it). By that estimate, I would guess a worst case scenario would be 10 weeks (everything generating problems and delays).