Post by Machinimax on Aug 26, 2015 15:56:29 GMT -5
"You can't stay on target with these things. You miss your first shot and you were lying on the ground with a hole blasted through your armor." - Anonymous Stormtrooper
Stormtrooper E-11 Blaster Rifle
This is an S&T Sterling airsoft gun that has been gutted and the internals replaced with lights and sounds. This is probably one of the most accurate metal Sterlings you can get without breaking the bank (more or less ) on a real deactivated one.
Rubber T-tracks from TFX Studios Super accurate PlayfulWolfCub power cylinders (FISD Forum) Replica Hengstler Counter from Blue Snaggletooth (FISD Forum) Custom made scope rail Vintage M38a2 tank scope (Not 100% accurate to the original but still awesome!) Plecter Labs Blaster Core 4.0 RGB Superflux LED barrel light 6 segment LED ammo counter
The stand is also custom made using a simple design consisting of wood and PVC. I added a piece of sheet metal on the area of the bolt that covers the ejection chamber to give it a more accurate look. When painting the power cylinders, I gave it a crude paint job by intentionally missing spots and even wiping off wet paint. This was to give them a bit of a weathered and used look. The LEDs used for the bar graph display (and the trigger switch) are held in place using a special part I designed and 3D printed myself. The tube protecting the wires from the counter to the Sterling is actually the same type found in Lego Technic kits.
This build was much more challenging than it looked but in the end the results are what count and they make me very happy! I can't wait to pair this with my incoming Anovos armor and hopefully join up with the 501st. Thanks all for looking!
"Don't get the idea that your [lightsaber] is a quick little project to be slapped together." - Luke Skywalker
Awsome job man. I think I'm going to take a break from sabers for my next personal project and do a blaster. Now that I've seen this, it's going to be an E-11.
Don't jump too quick and take a peak at the S&T airsoft website. They're creating a more accurate version of the L2A3 Sterling. I'm holder off hoping they get it right. Worst case I go back to this L2A1. It's a very nice base to make a blaster from.
profezzorn: hey ARKM, did you ever write a that tutorial on the toner transfer method?
Jun 23, 2017 15:50:15 GMT -5
ARKM: *waves hand* "I'm not the slacker you're looking for"
Jun 23, 2017 16:24:16 GMT -5
ARKM: Sadly no. Well, that's not entirely true. I did finish writing it but did not perform the steps and take pics of said steps.
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
ARKM: So it's like "Step 5: Using the high temperature temp, tape the paper with the design on it onto the metal part to be etched."
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:53 GMT -5
ARKM: ... but there's no Pic 4.
Jun 23, 2017 16:27:10 GMT -5
profezzorn: from other things I've read it's just PNP blue with some heat and pressure applied, right?
Jun 23, 2017 16:37:26 GMT -5
ARKM: Some use that. I could not get successful results with it but others have.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:16 GMT -5
profezzorn: so what do you use?
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:36 GMT -5
ARKM: I personally use glossy magazine pages. I just rip a page out of a magazine and put it in the printer. The pages have to be the right thickness for the printer though. Too thin and they rip in the printer.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:42 GMT -5