Hi all. This is a poll thread on what I should do with the Kylo Ren Force FX lightsaber I bought at Target on Force Friday. I don't really want it but perhaps the soundboard in it would be nice for a custom saber with three blades. Some things to note, none of the blades are removable and it's really bulky/oversized (at least in diameter and not screen accurate. Below are the options. I might wait on doing anything with the Force FX saber until after I get the Disney Store version of the Kylo Ren saber to compare sound boards. Rumor has it, they may be the same board and the Disney store version is only $30. Anywho, please vote on what you think I should do with it. Thanks.
1: Trade it for something I do want like a Graflex 3 cell replica.
2: Gut it for the sound board to use in a custom build. Reassemble it and sell it or trade it, listing it as missing the sound board.
3: Create a conversion kit for it so that all three blades are removable, share the specs of the conversion kit to the world, free of charge and keep it.
4: Create a conversion kit for it so that all three blades are removable, share the specs of the conversion kit to the world, free of charge and sell or trade it with said conversion kit.
5. Gut it for the sound board to use in a custom build AND create a conversion kit so that all three blades are removable, share the specs of the conversion kit to the world, free of charge and sell or trade it with said conversion kit.
I ordered the Disney Store version of Kylo Ren's lightsaber earlier today which is supposed to have a good soundboard and blade effects and a smaller diameter/more accurate hilt (albeit, plastic). It might be a good candidate for soundboard gutting seeing as how it's only $30 before shipping.
Well I know one thing for sure, the Kylo Ren Force FX saber's soundboard does not work well with the bass speaker from TCSS. How did I test this you may ask? I converted a Force FX Vader ANH and a few years back and I modified the battery holder/speaker combo with a custom machined piece of acetal that is mounted to said battery holder, to hold the bass speaker. That battery pack slips right on in the Kylo Ren Force FX saber just fine but I have to use my finger to pin the outer edge of the acetal at the end of the speaker/battery pack as it is not as long as the Kylo Ren one. Anywho, the sound was much worse. Still staticy sounding like all FX sabers but yeah, way worse.
Sell. It. Why gut it for an inferior soundboard when we have CF and Igniter.
Mainly because of the delay when igniting the two side blades. I want to make an "ARKM Idealized" version of Kylo Ren's saber so I want said delay. Can that be done with a CF or Igniter?
Is it a timer or is it just the last set of led strings paired up in the string set sequence? As that would give it the delay too. I'm sure makoto made a cross gaurd when the first trailer went up that had the same effect.
Post by chicagovader on Sept 9, 2015 13:56:34 GMT -5
I say keep it and convert it, the size of the hilt might be closer to the unseen hero prop than we think, the stunt hilt at celebration has been proven to be a simplified version of the saber and probably smaller as well so that it's more comfortable to hold.
Thanks for all your input everyone. I appreciate it. I decided to go with option 1. I borrowed money against my Kylo Ren Force FX lightsaber to purchase a Graflex replica so I have to either return it to Target within 90 days of purchase or sell it. My Graflex replica should be here tomorrow. It will be my first Graflex 3 cell ever (replica or otherwise). Glee!
The problem with not selling it locally (like on craigslist for example), is shipping it. It's ginormous. At first, I thought it was being shipped to stores in larger boxes. Recently I discovered that the Hasbro box is just getting wrapped in that super tough plastic-like paper.. which from what I have read on the net, has left some boxes damaged as they really have no crush protection during shipping. Let's just say that it's more trouble than it's worth to prepare it for shipping.
profezzorn: hey ARKM, did you ever write a that tutorial on the toner transfer method?
Jun 23, 2017 15:50:15 GMT -5
ARKM: *waves hand* "I'm not the slacker you're looking for"
Jun 23, 2017 16:24:16 GMT -5
ARKM: Sadly no. Well, that's not entirely true. I did finish writing it but did not perform the steps and take pics of said steps.
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
ARKM: So it's like "Step 5: Using the high temperature temp, tape the paper with the design on it onto the metal part to be etched."
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:53 GMT -5
ARKM: ... but there's no Pic 4.
Jun 23, 2017 16:27:10 GMT -5
profezzorn: from other things I've read it's just PNP blue with some heat and pressure applied, right?
Jun 23, 2017 16:37:26 GMT -5
ARKM: Some use that. I could not get successful results with it but others have.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:16 GMT -5
profezzorn: so what do you use?
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:36 GMT -5
ARKM: I personally use glossy magazine pages. I just rip a page out of a magazine and put it in the printer. The pages have to be the right thickness for the printer though. Too thin and they rip in the printer.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:42 GMT -5