Background for this build was for a project that needed me to build several kid-proof sabers quickly and on a tight budget. Had the idea to build a modular clampbox with the soundboard stuffed inside a large PVC coupler and the battery pack acting as the activation box. This way, batteries could be changed without anyone poking at the more delicate electronics.
That project actually fell through, but I managed to make use of the prototype when a family friend mentioned his son *really* wanted a Luke saber, and the modular soundbox seemed like a good way to go about it. Drew up some plans, mocking up Hero and V2 color schemes, and we went on building a PVC Hero Luke.
Machined a number of expanded PVC rings for the ribs, neck, and emitter, along with a knob and vented endcap for the pommel.
After the first coat of filler primer, the pommel was fitted with a tri-ring (in opposite orientation to prevent the battery box from digging into one's leg when the hilt is hung), the neck details were adjusted for comfort, and a few activation box details were machined from more expanded PVC and acrylic.
Afterward was some paint experimentation that wound up in failure. Sanded the whole hilt down, and went to my usual start-with-a-dark-base, dry-brush-to-desired-color technique.
Just an old Economy Soundboard with the standard Jedi soundfont. Tactile switch tucked away at the rear of the battery-pack/activation-box. DX RGB LED with only the green wired. 3xAAA battery pack. Custom-machined blade plug insert. Sanded thinwall blade seated about 4" into the hilt. Not the brightest or loudest saber in the world, but this kid had the biggest smile on his face when he received it.
profezzorn: hey ARKM, did you ever write a that tutorial on the toner transfer method?
Jun 23, 2017 15:50:15 GMT -5
ARKM: *waves hand* "I'm not the slacker you're looking for"
Jun 23, 2017 16:24:16 GMT -5
ARKM: Sadly no. Well, that's not entirely true. I did finish writing it but did not perform the steps and take pics of said steps.
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
ARKM: So it's like "Step 5: Using the high temperature temp, tape the paper with the design on it onto the metal part to be etched."
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:53 GMT -5
ARKM: ... but there's no Pic 4.
Jun 23, 2017 16:27:10 GMT -5
profezzorn: from other things I've read it's just PNP blue with some heat and pressure applied, right?
Jun 23, 2017 16:37:26 GMT -5
ARKM: Some use that. I could not get successful results with it but others have.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:16 GMT -5
profezzorn: so what do you use?
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:36 GMT -5
ARKM: I personally use glossy magazine pages. I just rip a page out of a magazine and put it in the printer. The pages have to be the right thickness for the printer though. Too thin and they rip in the printer.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:42 GMT -5