Sorry for the late response. I am so busy right now ^^
For the poly tube in the plasma gate I used fresh film ... I put it into the tube for scattering the light. But you can also use PP foil. I did not put a crystal into the tube.
All Steel materials are very inaccurate. And not flexible enough for the covers to snap in position.... I would not use steel for any cover parts. You can use stell for the fins and the front parts. Precious metal materials are better and more flexible. Also you can sand down the "snap-noses" (I don´t know how I can call them) so that you do not have to bend the cover too much for opening... Well, this chassis was not designed to be printed in metal. But the next will be!
I used normal german plastic putty. Nothing special. The color is a acrylic paint with iron. Iron-paint... the brand is "modern options". I have posted pictures of the color I used. But I think there are similar paints to get.
I'm pretty much dead set on going with this chassis system for my upcoming build. It looks absolutely incredible. That plasma gate just completes the whole thing. Did you stick a second crystal in the poly tube in the video vader?
I want to get several of the parts "printed" in metal. I am even considering doing the entire thing in metal and lining the places where the electronics touch with paint-on electrical tape. It's still risky though. I do have a couple of questions.
It seems like the hatch has to flex a bit to snap onto the chassis when closing. Is that accurate? I imagine that printing both the chassis and the hatch in metal would make it very difficult to open and close. What about printing the chassis itself in plastic but the hatch door and battery doors (18650 model) in metal? Yay? Nay?
You say that the stainless steel material has poor accuracy, but does this apply (if you know) to the other steel materials such as polished grey steel or nickel steel?
As for painting, I'm assuming you're using a plastic putty to smooth out the bumps in that video before paining, then sanding, then sealing, then using metallic paints. The spoon polish method is very interesting. Can you reccomend any particular types of putty/sealant/paint to achieve pretty much exactly what you did in the video? I don't have an airbrush, but I'm definitely thinking about getting one for this project and future projects.
I ordered my chassis a few days ago and opted for most of the chassis to be the Black strong plastic with part 4b printed in raw bronze. Just that part alone was bout $80 but I figured it would look pretty good with a weathered finish.
The price is really absurd, for that you can go to an 3D-milling company and you have better acuracy
The normal price for the plastic version with a polished brass crystal chamber is around $250 and well worth it, IMO. I don't think he really intended for people to print it in metal and actually advised against it.
I never said something like that, i just complain about the shapeway metal prices.
Please don't think I was coming down on you or anything. I wasn't. Sorry if it came across that way. I was just saying that Vader didn't really intend for people to print that chassis in metal. The crystal chamber in polished brass is worth it, though.
I also think that a metal chamber is worth it, but it's sad that the pricing is so hight that we hardly can't go for more metal if we wanted too. I know a lot of pieces really need to be plastic and i am totally fine with that.
As Luke noted 450 for one of the bigger parts is pretty hard to justify, especially when the accuracy isn't the same as the plastic.
Post by Darth Chasm on Mar 8, 2017 15:57:25 GMT -5
I'll toss you guys a freebie here. The only thing I ask is that credit is given when due. I was pondering offering this as a service at one point but with everything else going on I don't really want to take on the load. It is the method I used for my DCLS-004 and for Corbin's Killer Penny sled. While you don't get the heft of metal you do get a genuine metal finish.
It's a simple plating process similar to salt water etching. Sort of reverse in fact. Rather than connecting the positive to the work piece you connect the negative. Anyway, the secret to achieving plating on non-metallic surfaces is using conductive paint. Graphite paint in most cases. Simply paint the surfaces you want to plate. Attach your leads and submerge in the electrolyte for a period of time. I did copper for DCLS-004 and used copper electroforming/electroplating solution. You can probably do nickel as second plate over the copper if you want something more silver in color. Just mind your tolerances. For nickel you would just need to get nickel plating solution and the correct anode. The plating can be polished lightly with 0000 steel wool to bring out the shine. Your surface finish will greatly depend on the surface of the printed parts, so take time to smooth out the prints first if you want a smooth metal finish. I chose to leave mine rough to fit the theme of the saber. You can also opt to seal the plating with a clear coat to make it more durable.
The first post here will show results prior to weathering and also has a little video demonstrating conductivity.
Jewelers use this method all the time to electroform metal leaves, shells and other non-metallic doodads. SO it's nothing new, just new to sabercraft I guess. Give it a search and you'll find a few sources for info.
Sorry if this is thread disrupting, Vader. I will delete if you so wish.
Couple of final notes. I have not done the nickel plating yet so do your research. Second, this involves use of chemicals. Again, do your research and take all necessary safety measures.
this is a commission work painted with AK extrem metal... available in brass, dark metal, steel... what you want Price for commission without shipping and Graflex is 1650€. If you are interested in a commission work, contact me.