I'm starting a WIP thread for my next scratchbuilt saber.
First, I picked a sketch out of my lightsaber sketch notebook. This one, to be exact. Everyone has a lightsaber notebook, right?
Then, I mocked up a 3d model of the saber, the components, and the chassis. This helps me get a sense of scale and to see how things will fit together.
I'm going for a dual speaker setup in this one. The prop shield for the teensy will drive a 4ohm speaker (I put one into my son's latest saber), so I'm going to put 2 8ohm railmaster speakers into this one.
I started with the emitter ring. This is my first actual non-test usage of my vinyl cutter. Here it is all ready to take a salt water bath:
Top is 1" in diameter to fit snugly into the blade holder. Base is 1.125" diameter. It's a very tight fit with the led and lens, which is good, since it will keep the led star sandwiched to the aluminum base. It may actually be too tight after I add the thermal paste. We'll see. The whole thing is held in place with a set screw.
The inner handle has a ribbed section. The outer shroud and inner ribbed handle will be JB-welded together and slide off of the rear of the saber as one piece.
I was really inspired by a couple of copper-themed sabers that showed up recently. Namely, Copper Vanguard by snilam (on fx-sabers) and DCLS-005 by Darth Chasm. I was originally designing an all aluminum hilt, but now I'm going with copper for the accents.
My original drawing had some lines in the neck/choke section. However, I decided that I wanted more of a grippy surface, so I changed the pattern to be much busier. This will be the last of the etching for this saber.
I'm using a Teensy 3.5 and the prop shield for this. My original Teensy 3.2 code came right over with only a few minor changes. The chassis is 3d-printed from shapeways. My measurements were pretty good. The pcbs snap into place under the tabs perfectly. Speakers slide into their slots with just enough friction that I may not affix them with anything else.
The LED mosfets are on a custom pcb ordered from OSHPark that fits above the crystal chamber.
In a previous post, I mentioned I was worried about the LED star not fitting with the paste. Seems like it did OK.
Here's the chassis all wired up. Fun Fact: You can use a LEGO Technic connector peg as a kill key in a 2.1mm port if you're in a pinch and haven't made a kill key yet.
Here's the underside showing the 3D-printed crystal.
Here's the process for connecting the chassis wiring to the buttons in the emitter. The chassis slides into the inner hilt. I've cut some access slots for the wiring and the USB port in case I need to reprogram anything.
Post by Darth Chasm on Feb 28, 2017 23:11:06 GMT -5
NICE!! Love it.
I am a big fan of the d-ring aesthetic and bigger fan of homemade ones. I recently mad a Kobold style one out of copper and brass. Soldered 2 1/8" x 1/8" brass bars to the top of a 1/4" x 1/2" copper bar, drilled the holes and hollowed the saber facing side to match the radius.
Clamped the piece between two 1-2-3 blocks and used a 1.5" sanding drum on the drill press. Ok, so it's not an exact match to the 1.45" OD but very close. The other, excruciatingly long way to do it is wrap sand paper around the hilt and run the piece along the length. Good luck keeping it straight though
For the blade plug, I have been using PEX sweat adapters lately. They're almost the perfect diameter even if they are a little short. My blade socket is right at 2" deep, and the sweat adapter is only about 1-1/2", so I put a copper ring around the top that will keep it from going too far into the blade holder. I'm taking a page from ARKM and using a blade from an old electric razor inside, though I'm using the actual blade and not the screen. I back-filled it with hot glue to help diffuse some of the light when it's in.
So, with copper on the front, I'd better add copper on the back for balance. On this saber, the "pommel" is really just an end cap attached to the shroud. This is basically it. It will be affixed to and slide of with the rear shroud unit.
I cut some vents for the crystal chamber so you can see it through the shroud and inner hilt. I decided to go with a "layered" effect where the inner hilt's vents are just slightly smaller than the shroud vents.
These are the final bits, and I expect to have everything assembled and cleaned up this weekend.