Post by darthcephalus on Mar 10, 2017 22:08:23 GMT -5
This is a review of the Samurai 3000 from united cutlery and a brief how to on how it differs from and can be told apart from the knockoff version. This is a bit out of character for me, but it is a popular item within the lightsaber community, and I had a couple, so I thought this info might be worthwhile.
Just some more background info... There is also a United Cutlery "ninja-to" version in the Samurai 3000 line-up. It has a different blade and guard than the katana. Also, Arm on Fire was the first sabersmith to make a saber based off of the Samurai 3000. He made his many years ago and it was very cool. Also, the design of the Inquisitor lightsaber from the first season of Star Wars Rebels is heavily based off of the Samurai 3000 katana. *adjusts nerd glasses*
Post by darthcephalus on Mar 10, 2017 22:45:06 GMT -5
I had someone jump on that on Facebook too. Apparently, they also called the Tanto a Wakizashi, but for my money, it's too short for that to be accurate. Man do these things have a history in this community though.
Thank you DarthCephalus, your recent YT video is exactly why I came here to communicate with you (yes subscribed and liked.)
The VV Mitsuragi 3K is based on the Ninja version of the Samurai 3000, has a similar tsuba and is highlighted black rather than the beautiful grey of the Samurai and Tanto versions of the Samurai 3000.
IMO the Samurai version (and Tanto) kills the Ninja version for looks and I have wanted one forever but living in a nanny state things like that are illegal (I am not kidding.)
Anyone know if it is possible to actually convert a Samurai 3000 hilt to lightsaber complete with crystal chamber (could look great in that centre section) and still keep the quillons?
profezzorn: hey ARKM, did you ever write a that tutorial on the toner transfer method?
Jun 23, 2017 15:50:15 GMT -5
ARKM: *waves hand* "I'm not the slacker you're looking for"
Jun 23, 2017 16:24:16 GMT -5
ARKM: Sadly no. Well, that's not entirely true. I did finish writing it but did not perform the steps and take pics of said steps.
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -5
ARKM: So it's like "Step 5: Using the high temperature temp, tape the paper with the design on it onto the metal part to be etched."
Jun 23, 2017 16:26:53 GMT -5
ARKM: ... but there's no Pic 4.
Jun 23, 2017 16:27:10 GMT -5
profezzorn: from other things I've read it's just PNP blue with some heat and pressure applied, right?
Jun 23, 2017 16:37:26 GMT -5
ARKM: Some use that. I could not get successful results with it but others have.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:16 GMT -5
profezzorn: so what do you use?
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:36 GMT -5
ARKM: I personally use glossy magazine pages. I just rip a page out of a magazine and put it in the printer. The pages have to be the right thickness for the printer though. Too thin and they rip in the printer.
Jun 23, 2017 16:47:42 GMT -5