LOL IndustrialAction does like to push the limits with some of his builds. Though I still think you should blame Nico Diath in honor of this forum's tradition!
Ok, now I need a backstory.
Few years back I was working on a saber project for Nico Diath.
Using my lathe, I stupidly put my right index finger between the spinning TCSS Bladeholder #17 and the cutting tool. Knocked the part out of the jaws, stalled the lathe motor, turned the tool post out of perpendicular. Broke the finger bone and my fingernail in several places below the quick. Hurt bad enough I almost puked. Lost the fingernail. Fingertip was numb for months, and even now, the sensitivity of that fingertip is detectably reduced. A "real" lathe would have taken the fingertip. Score one for small lathes.
I posted images of said injury and blamed Nico Diath for it.
So, since then, whenever anything goes wrong around here, we blame Nico Diath. The more preposterous the connection, the funnier it is.
7x12 Chinese mini-lathe and mini-mill. The same baseline units that littlemachine shop sells, but from Harbor Freight, so minus some nice features. DROs make easy work of certain task that would take forever measuring by hand.
Every machine has a tradeoff. It might be that certain parts are too big for your lathe or mill, but such is life. In 5 years, I've had to take a lathe project to an outside machine shop ONE time (and I blame Industrial Action for that).
What is the best lathe and mill? The one you have access to.
Does your RGB accent LED have a common cathode or common anode?
If it doesn't have a common cathode, you're using the wrong accent LED.
He needs what is, in the US, termed a common ANODE led.
Single + lead, multiple - leads
If he used a "common cathode" RGB led, he shouldn't get much of anything. He'd be wiring a diode backwards.
I have wired RGB LEDS on Igniter and Igniter 2, in parallel with the main blade. The common "+" to the battery VBAT, and the individual "-" to the C1-, C2- , C3- I must admit I haven't used the accent LED "VCC" common + for this purpose, although Naigon's diagram shows that method.
When I have unexpected behavior on a 5mm RGB LED, it was because I mis-identified the leads. I since use a 3v battery pack to identify the leads prior to soldering.
Take a spare 5mm RGB LED. Take a 3V battery source (2xAAA in series in a holder, etc). Don't trust any diagram that accompanied the LEDs from "wherever". Use the red/black wire from the 3V source to test the LED and find the pinout.
Once you know which lead is which, use alligator clips or test leads to wire the 5mm LED to your Spark temporarily. See what colors you get.
Last Edit: Sept 29, 2016 15:48:18 GMT -5 by arkhan
Thanks so much for your help! It was definitely the positive rail. I have one more question on the matching RGB color changing crystal chamber set up. The 5mm LEDs I bought seem to not work well with the board. I have each negative from the 5mm LED connected to the correct negative main LED RGB channel on the board and the positive for the 5mm LED connected to the accent LED channel. The 5mm LED appears to have Red, Blue, and Green on despite only one or two channels being active on the main LED.
Is this due to the 5mm LED's or is this due to a setting on the sound board? If you have a recommended brand for 5mm RGB LEDs for this set up please let me know.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
When I wire an RGB crystal chamber, I wire the accent LED completely in parallel with the main.
The Igniter manual does show the configuration that you mention for RGB accent LED, though.
2x2x2 = $5.64 before shipping. 3x3x3 = $13.41 before shipping.
You need to pick aluminum square bar, 6061-T6511 and then "Create a Custom Size". Then you enter in the inches and click in the "Cost/Piece" box and it will update the price. Fair warning though, shipping is often around $15 or so. As such, it helps to order more items to help justify the shipping costs.
I hope that helps.
With ONLINEMETALS, *try* to ship via USPS Flat Rate Box.
If your stuff fits, it ships
I remember a couple years ago when ONLINEMETALS didn't offer USPS. ugg.
Due to unforeseen circumstance (teenager+driving+phone) and very upset wife I will be letting go of a few of my prize sabers. First is my Master Replicas ROTS Obi Wan Limited Edition 1735. All original shipping material including shipping box. 900.00 plus paypal/shipping fees.
Sales threads require current photos of the item(s) to be sold.
A good lithum ion will drop from 4.1v to 3.6v pretty fast, hold there for a long time, then start fading quicker before completely de-draining. The board will cut off at about 3.4v as well so you won't see much dip after the 3.6 starts getting lower.
That being said the TCSS PLI should work in conjunction with my board, you'd wire it in parallel with the main board, with the ground going through the kill key or kill switch as well.
A Pli set to run from 4 to 3.6 volts would be useful with lithium ion batteries. The one sold at TCSS doesn't seem like it provides usable indication.
We don't see very many PLI in sabers these days (well, *I* don't).
I believe the reason is that Lithium Ion batteries provide a pretty constant voltage output through most of their discharge cycle. It is only at the very end of a discharge cycle that the voltage drops appreciably. Then, very soon after, around 2.4v for one board I researched, the protection circuit will trigger and you'll get "a dead battery" until recharge.
Google "Lithium ion dicharge graph" and you'll see what I'm referencing.
The PLI you linked shows FULL at 3.7v and EMPTY at 2.4v
Naigon can let you know at WHAT voltage one of his boards will STOP WORKING, but I'm willing to bet it is a lot higher than 2.4V
As such, the PLI is basically useless.
The discharge curves for Alkaline or NiMH batteries are more useful with PLIs.
In any case, wiring one up would likely be between the + and - terminals of the battery / recharge port.
Wiring it as an accent LED would not be where I'd start.
(There has to be a better place for this thread, but I haven't found it so far....)
I'm considering buying a lathe, but I'm too cheap to buy most of the lathes I've seen, and the ones that are cheap enough look like junk...
Except, maybe, for this one. It's been a long time since I've operated a lathe, so I really don't know if this thing would do what I need or not, and I would love to hear from more experienced machinists what they think about it.
That micro-lathe would work for pommels and blade holders, but its just too small for main bodies.
Additionally, accessories are harder to come by.
The Mini-lathes in the 7x12 size are as small as I would go. 7x14 or 7x16 would be better yet.
The mini-lathes have a much better range of accessories available as well.
Anticipate spending +50% - +100% of the cost in the lathe to get the accessories needed to actually USE the lathe.
So I have a ultrasabers chosen one CE with obsidian premium sound and a single diode red LED. I'm wondering whether I should switch out the board for one of my igniter2 or spark color2 and the new NeC RGB LED. Or if I should just sell it how it is, I would literally change all the insides and install a recharge port. Or do I etch and customize it, but that runs risk of taking away value. I see this saber as a investment being in the likeness of Darth Vader Saber,I would say it's a sought out design.
I would not considered it an investment-level saber which would be significantly devalued by modification.
Its an Ultrasabers product inspired by, but not identical to, a Darth Vader saber.
Suppose I have three multiple lockup sounds in a soundfont: lock01, lock02, and lock03. Then I hold the aux button and have an extraordinarily long lockup that lasts longer than any of the lockup sound files. How does the Igniter 2 handle this?
1. Does it pick one of the lockup soundfiles and repeat it over and over, or 2. Does it pick one, play it, then pick another and play that, and so on?
Based on my Igniter, it picks one and repeats it over and over.
swisssalvo: I'm sorry, I am just getting into this forum now, and I am looking for Kanan Jarrus build, any directions people can give me?
Jul 21, 2017 13:41:13 GMT -5
Rogue Five: Hi swisssalvo. Are you looking to buy a hilt or do you just want to see a build thread? I don't think anyone has posted a build thread for a Kanan hilt on this forum yet.
Jul 21, 2017 16:11:00 GMT -5
Rogue Five: Everyone is waiting for NerfworX lab to finish their run.
Jul 21, 2017 16:13:31 GMT -5
swisssalvo: ill see if i can go find NerfworX thread. Thanks for the heads up. Is the run closed do you know?
Jul 21, 2017 20:27:19 GMT -5